Troezen – In the Footsteps of an Ancient History
Troezen is a place where mythology meets history, while the natural landscape still preserves visible traces of civilizations that flourished here thousands of years ago.
From the Mycenaean burial monuments of Megali Magoula and the ancient sanctuaries of Troezen to the Roman remains beneath the sea at Psifta, the region offers a fascinating journey through time.
Ancient Troezen
Ancient Troezen was one of the most important cities in the northeastern Peloponnese. Its history is closely linked to mythology, as it is considered the homeland of Theseus and the setting of the tragic story of Hippolytus and Phaedra.
The ancient city extended across the plain west of the present-day settlement, while its acropolis stood on the steep hill to the southeast. Although a significant part of it remains buried beneath modern farmland, the surviving monuments and the detailed account of the traveller Pausanias bear witness to its wealth and importance.
Across the wider area, traces of sanctuaries, temples, public buildings, cemeteries, bathing facilities and sections of the ancient fortifications have been discovered.
Sanctuary of Hippolytus
The Sanctuary of Hippolytus is the most important and extensively excavated archaeological site of Ancient Troezen. It stood outside the city walls and was dedicated to Hippolytus, son of Theseus, who was initially worshipped as a hero and later as a deity.
His worship in Troezen probably dates back to the Geometric period. According to the tradition preserved by Pausanias, before their wedding, the young women of Troezen would cut off a lock of their hair and dedicate it to Hippolytus.
At the archaeological site, visitors can see the remains of the ancient sacred precinct, a small temple, an altar, a monumental gateway, a stoa, a fountain building and a large complex arranged around a colonnaded courtyard. The latter has been associated with ritual meals and therapeutic practices, possibly connected with the worship of Asclepius.
A vaulted underground chamber has been interpreted by scholars as the secret tomb of Hippolytus, which, according to ancient tradition, the people of Troezen did not reveal to outsiders.
Phaedra, Hippolytus and Panagia Episkopi
Above the Sanctuary of Hippolytus stand the ruins of the Byzantine church of Panagia Episkopi, which was built using ancient material in secondary use.
The Temple of Aphrodite Kataskopia is also believed to have stood in the same area. According to tradition, it was founded by Phaedra, who is said to have watched Hippolytus exercising in the stadium from this spot.
Pausanias also mentions Phaedra’s myrtle tree, her tomb, the monument of Hippolytus and the ancient stadium. A natural hollow near Panagia Episkopi is considered a possible location of the stadium, although its precise identification remains a subject of study.
The Tower of Diatichisma
At the foot of the acropolis, sections of a transverse defensive wall known as the Diateichisma have survived. It was constructed around 146 BC, when the city sought to strengthen its defences against the anticipated Roman attack.
A large rectangular tower, known as the Tower of the Diateichisma, is incorporated into the wall. It is one of the best-preserved monuments of Ancient Troezen, as both its entrance and the internal stone staircase leading to the upper floor remain intact.
During the period of Frankish rule, the tower was repaired and incorporated into the defensive system of the Castle of Damalas. In more recent local tradition, it is sometimes referred to as the “Palace of Theseus”, although this name does not reflect its true archaeological identity.
The Acropolis and Castle of Damalas
Above the ancient city rose the Acropolis of Troezen. At its summit is believed to have stood the Temple of Athena Polias or Sthenias, which was probably destroyed during the construction of the later medieval castle.
Today, remains of the ancient fortifications and the Castle of Damalas can still be seen. The climb offers panoramic views over the plain of Troezen, Methana, Poros and the Saronic Gulf.
The approach requires caution and suitable footwear, as the route is not clearly marked or maintained throughout.
The Rock of Theseus
The Rock of Theseus is associated with one of the region’s best-known myths. Before returning to Athens, Aegeus hid his sword and sandals beneath a large rock, leaving instructions that his son should retrieve them once he was strong enough to lift the stone.
When Theseus came of age, he moved the rock, took the objects that proved his identity and set out on his journey to Athens.
The site preserves Troezen’s enduring connection with the mythical hero and makes an interesting stop while exploring the area.
Megali Magoula and the Mycenaean Tholos Tombs
At Megali Magoula, near the ancient harbour of Pogon and the present-day Bay of Vidio, one of the most important prehistoric archaeological sites in the Troezen region was discovered.
Archaeological excavations brought to light the remains of a settlement and three Mycenaean tholos tombs. The findings indicate that a powerful and well-organised centre existed in the area as early as the Bronze Age.
The earliest tomb dates to approximately the 16th century BC and features a monumental megalithic entrance. The other two tombs also date from the Mycenaean period, with the largest standing out for its impressive dimensions.
The earliest tomb dates to approximately the 16th century BC and features a monumental megalithic entrance. The other two tombs also date from the Mycenaean period, with the largest standing out for its impressive dimensions.
The Ancient Harbour of Pogon
Near Megali Magoula lay the ancient harbour of Pogon, the principal port of Troezen.
This safe and sheltered bay held great strategic importance. According to Herodotus, part of the Greek fleet assembled at Pogon before the Battle of Salamis in 480 BC.
The harbour’s geographical position largely explains the region’s development from prehistoric times through to the historical period.
The “Sunken City” of Psifta
In the shallow waters off Psifta Beach, sections of masonry and scattered pottery fragments can be seen. The site is known locally as the “Sunken City”, and the visible remains are traditionally attributed to the Roman period.
On days when the sea is calm and clear, some of the structures can be seen beneath the surface, creating a striking scene where the ancient past meets the modern coastal landscape.
As there is limited published archaeological documentation regarding the site’s exact identity, extent and population, it is more accurate to describe it as a collection of submerged archaeological remains rather than a fully identified ancient city.
When observing the remains, stones and pottery fragments should not be moved and, of course, no objects should be removed from the sea.
The Sanctuary of Artemis Saronia and the Myth of Saron
Near ancient Lake Phoibaia, present-day Psifta, Pausanias records that the Sanctuary of Artemis Saronia and the tomb of the mythical King Saron were located.
According to tradition, Saron pursued a deer that fled into the sea. Driven by his passion for hunting, he followed it into the water, swam far from the shore and drowned.
His body was washed ashore near the sacred grove of Artemis and buried there. In his honour, the surrounding sea is said to have been named the Saronic Gulf.
The Psifta Wetland
A visit to the archaeological remains can be combined with a walk around the Psifta Wetland.
The lagoon is an important stopover for many bird species and is ideal for a peaceful walk, wildlife watching and photography. Water, vegetation, antiquities and mythology come together to create a landscape with a distinctive natural and historical identity.